Wednesday, October 31, 2012

Dia de Muertos - The Sugar Market


My plans for today changed.  I was supposed to be out of town.  That was cancelled.  It gave me the opportunity to go to Plaza Civica and walk through the booths with chickens, pigs, puppies and all sorts of characters.  It is so whimsical and creative.  It just makes my heart happy.
The sugar market just makes you smile.

The amount of work to create each of these sugar creatures is quite extraordinary.  These are ephemeral and don't last forever.  It reminds me of the Night of the Radishes in Oaxaca. All the work of planting, raising, carving and decorating radishes - giant radishes - for one day of joy!
Talk about "living in the moment".  It is always around you in Mexico.

This photo makes me laugh!
It looks like there is a mutiny or stampede of pigs.  They don't have happy faces, do they?

Then there are the sweet sheep.  Notice all the detail in the gold on their horns.  Flowers and decoration on their chests.  Magnifico.

I've never seen dogs before - too cute.  You have NO idea how hard it was for me not to buy an armload of everything.  I didn't.  I didn't buy one thing!
Whew.

Just as I arrived at this table they were bringing in the pan de muertos.  It is used on the altars and for the meals at the cemetary or at homes.

Candles for the altars, the gravesites and probably use throughout the year.  All handmade.

 Papel picado is the cut paper streamers with all kinds of scenes cut on it.  These skulls on this streamer are something new and not nearly as time consuming as the beautiful colored papel picado.

More pigs - not as decorated.  Still love them!  Folkart at its best.

As I was going up to more booths, this lady was coming down the stairs from the mercado where she obviously had bought flowers for her altar at home.  As I faced walking up the stairs, I had an "ah ha" moment.  ADA is not a part of life in San Miguel.  We either get up and down stairs or we have to move away.  I personally believe that having to walk the cobblestones, stairs, etc.  keep us from getting old before our time.

Then, of course, eventually  there will be a Dia de Muertos for us!
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Tuesday, October 30, 2012

Getting Ready - Dia de Muertos

 
The flowers are arriving.  The lady on the corner had the marigolds and cockscomb for all to buy to use in preparation of their altars.  She didn't wave to me as she usually does.  She was busy talking to the elderly lady who stopped in her apron and rebozo with her bolsa.

Just a day on the streets of San Miguel de Allende.
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Sunday, October 28, 2012

A Day of Sourcing Furnishings and Accessories in Mexico!


 It's been many years since I hit the roads around town for furnishings and accessories.  I used to do this for a living as part of my export business when I was designing Tex Mex restaurants in the 80's and 90's.  Often multiple projects at a time. 

Most of that, in fact almost all of it, was either in Guadalajara or Patzcuaro.  Funny, funny memories popped into my head on Thursday as I was trooping through sandy yards and old buildings.

The photo above is from the showroom of San Gabriel tile factory.  It is unbelievable how much things have changed in twenty years.  The first time I went to their factory, twenty years ago, it was down a dusty road with tiles glued on the outside of the building to show that they made tile.  The growth has been caused, in part, by NAFTA.  Going to Delores shows how significant an impact that law has had, in a positive way on the economy of Mexico.

San Gabriel no longer just makes tiles but also lots of talavera as seen by the plates embedded in the wall of the showroom kitchen.

One of the purposes of the trip was to order counter stools for a friend for his new home.  When I saw these stools featured in a House Beautiful article last month, I knew immediately everywhere the people had gone for everything.

So when my friend wanted these counter stools, I offered to take him.  Can you read the sign on the side of this building?  It says Ninfa Laurénzo's Artesanias.  For anyone living in Texas, especially the Houston area, Ninfa was a pioneer in the Tex-Mex restaurant business. 

Any restauranteur who came to Houston wanting to start a Tex-Mex restaurant chain, or just open a Tex-Mex restaurant wanted to go to Ninfa's on Navigation.

She, like I, had been widowed and raised her children alone - many of whom are in the restaurant business still to this day.  The sons now own a chain called El Tiempo.  Ninfa's was sold.

We became friends through my involvement in the Texas Restaurant Association and as President of Roundtable for Women in Foodservice.  RWF was a national organization. 

Ninfa was always ready to help in our scholarship endeavors with guest appearances at our functions.  What a lady!  When she died, the church in downtown Houston was literally filled to overflowing.  That is when I met the nephew who operates the place that is in the photo above.  He was making furniture here for use in the restaurants in the Houston area.  Small world.

 Love this cart.  We used to take these and retrofit them for salad bars in some high end Mexican restaurants.  If I had been "working", I would have bought this on the spot.  But now, I''m just enjoying.

Seeing these old drink cases used to make my heart race.  Great "decor" items for a funky chain, Tex-Mex or not.

 The hand stools are something new.  Never seen them before and there were about five of them.  An artisan must have just gotten an idea and voila, here they are.  I wished that I had somewhere to use them.

More stuff to use for decoration.  Note the coca-cola sign just resting against the wall?  Oh my, it is worth money!

These huge bateas are getting more and more scarce.  I used to find them everywhere for no more then, at the most $5US.  No more.  They are pricey but still worth it to have something made by hand.
People use them to put decorative items in or to put plants in in the garden.

This, to me, is a crowning jewel.  It is a back harness to go on the back of the burros to carry wood or corn stalks or whatever. I haven't seen one of these in at least ten years.  They don't make them anymore.  It can be used to make a coffee table with a piece of glass on it or, to just hang on the wall as it is here.  It's a reminder of a time long ago.

I must tell you, my adrenalin was pumping that day as we placed the order for the mesquite counter stools.   Looked at other furniture.  Priced other items.  It felt like "my other self" had come back to life to help someone in a field that provided me with such a great life.

Always adding to the fun is the interaction with the owner, the carpenter, his family who seems to always be around.  I was never a designer who ordered from catalogs.  I always wanted the unique, authentic and different.  It was harder work.  It was worth it.

I can't wait to take this friend next week to some other areas in another direction.  Then another day down a dirt road to see things he would never imagine could be made in such primitive conditions.

At the end of the day, I thanked him for allowing me to take him to these places.  He looked at me strangely.  But, I meant it.  It was fun.  Can you imagine that I used to get paid very well to do this in my other life?  Who knew?
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Saturday, October 27, 2012

The Circus is in Town!


They started setting up on Thursday.

A LOT of hard work to get three big tents up.  The BIG tent is red and white.  In a field near the glorieta where all the tourists coming in from Mexico City and Queretaro will KNOW there is a circus in town.

On Friday as I was heading to Immigration, in the continuing saga to get my new FM-2, the large trucks with cages full of animals were heading toward the jardin to drive through centro.

Long, long ago, when I first came to San Miguel, they would parade the camels, elephants and other assorted animals on foot through centro.  The first time I saw that I couldn't believe my eyes.

So, I want to go to the circus.  I posted the information of the circus being in town on the Civil List, or the Snivel List as most call it.
Good grief, it caused an uproar.  I was accused of supporting torture in order to go to something I would enjoy.  I absolutely couldn't believe how rude and judgemental people can be when someone wants to do something that they don't approve of.

I moved to Mexico because it is a "live and let live" country.  If only the ex-pats would learn this.  They criticize without even going to see what the circus is like in Mexico.
I don't understand it.  Really.
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Wednesday, October 24, 2012

Waves and Waves............of Butterflies!


 It started yesterday about 2PM.  I worked in the garden most of yesterday trimming, pruning, repotting.  When I looked around at about 1PM I was astonished how many butterflies were flitting around.  They weren't all monarchs either.

 I stopped counting at 100!  What a sight.  It was warm - mid 80's and the monarchs were sucking nectar from the bourgavilla.  Then they dipped down to the water bowls I have scattered around and then hightailed it south.

 Finally I stopped what I was doing, rested on the chaise and within 10 minutes had taken these photos.

What a gift of nature.   I had intended to be gone somewhere yesterday.  I'm so glad I was home to witness this beautiful "happening".

By the way, photographng butterflies is NOT easy.  They move faster then you could possibly imagine.  I ended up with lots of leaves and no butterflies because they moved faster then me!
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Tuesday, October 23, 2012

The Cuban Missle Crisis - 50 Year Anniversary


San Miguel at dusk looking West.

 I remember the Cuban Missle crisis as though it happened yesterday.  I'll tell you why.  It was the first time that our car was stopped and searched entering England AFB located on the outskirts of Alexandria, Louisiana.  It was the first time I ever saw guns with bayonets on the front of them.  All I was doing, at 20 years of age, was driving my husband to work on the base.

He was a paramedic in a Tactical Air Squadron.  He worked at the base hospital.

We had a newborn little girl, Jennifer, nine months old  She was in the car also.

After dropping my husband off at the hospital, I turned around and headed off base where the car was thoroughly searched again.  To say I was rattled would be an understatement.

That night when my husband got a ride home, he said he had to leave.  He didn't know where he was going but that the Russians had missles pointed at the US and that they were on  high alert.

That was serious enough.  But then he said, "All families are being told to have an evacuation plan to leave here and go somewhere where the missles probably won't strike".  I'll never forget my reaction.

Where in the world would that be?  He said we had to determine a place so if there was a war on American soil that he would know where to find me when it was over because there might not be any possibility of phone service.  WOW.

Talk about a sobering thought.  He packed his duffle bag.  Got a ride with a fellow serviceman, kissed me and our daughter goodbye and left.  We had determined that if I needed to evacuate that I would go to a very small town in northwestern Louisiana where some distant relatives lived.

I don't know how many days he was gone.  It seemed like forever.  Of course in those days, news didn't travel fast like today.  It was a very terrifying time.

Needless to say, I, everyone in the USA and probably most people in the world were glad when the Russians and Cubans backed down. 

I was darn young then.  Even so, I certainly realized the consequences.  It was a wonderful day when my husband came home. 

I'll never forget it!

Where were you?  What are your memories?
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Saturday, October 20, 2012

A Way to Childrens' Hearts


 Camila, a delightful blog reader from Santa Barbara, California brought these two adorable Beanie Babies to me recently when she and her husband visited San Miguel.  I, of course, knew immediately how much Sebastian and Matilda would enjoy something soft and small enough to carry around. A little friend to sleep with at night.

So this week when I was able to visit with them for a little while, I took the puppy and monkey to them.  You'll notice in photos below that in many instances they were carrying their gift, even if they were playing something else.

 In this photo Matilda and her Daddy were swinging her puppy up in the air.  Children have such wonderful imaginations.  Her puppy was immediately named, "Princess".

 Sebastian got a little voom voom car also that day so he's showing me how noisy it can be while I hold his monkey.  Matilda is still holding her "Princess".

 Sebastian named his monkey "Bandy".  Here he is feeding him a pretzel.

Even while throwing a plastic bowl, which has now become a frizbee, Bandy was still in his hand. We had a slight crisis at about this time.  "Princess" started shedding little beads from inside.  Oh my, Grammy didn't have a needle and thread to do surgery, but, she did have a bandaid.  Crisis averted.

Princess still has her bandaid on her side because Matilda says shes not well yet! 

 It's such a treasure for me to just sit back and watch them play with their dad.  Sebastian always has his dump truck and cement mixer.  If there is dirt nearby, he is there playing in it.

Matilda is the dancer, the singer and the serious one.  I look at this photo and wonder, "What is she thinking?"

Here they are with the perfect ingredients for fun.  Dirt, water, spoons and trucks.  If I didn't know
better as I watch Matilda and Sebastian - big sister and little brother - I would say I'm watching Jennifer and John, their dad, at the very same age.  I remember it all so well.

It is so wonderful being a "Grammy" or, as they say in Mexico, an "abuela".  I'm so grateful for having the chance to have little ones around me again.
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Tuesday, October 16, 2012

Tianguis on Tuesday - San Miguel de Allende, Mexico


After parking and walking through the dusty parking lot, the first sight to greet me at the tianguis are the displays of cockatiels, parakeets, canaries, doves and who knows what other kind of birds.  It DOES always put a smile on my fact to hear the birdsong.

 I've been trying to get to the tianguis for a few weeks but life kept intruding.  However, I was up and out this morning before anyone or anything could interrupt.

I seldom photograph at the tianguis because about 12 years ago a man put a hex on my friend who photographed him and her camera didn't work again the whole trip.  True story. 
You can see by the look on the flower lady's face that she is none too happy.

 So, I try to take close ups of stuff.  You name it, you can find it here.  Anything.  Parts for all kinds of appliances.  Food.  Produce.  Live animals.  And, clothing - new and used just to name a few things.

 I love seeing the Mexican families watching the birds.  I don't think I know a family here in San Miguel that doesn't have some kind of birds.  I have so many wild birds singing in the garden that I certainly don't need a bird in a cage, thankfully.

The displays of peppers were just beautiful today.  I wonder if this is the time of the year when there is a large harvest.

 Everything is sold and weighed the old fashioned way.  On an old scale.

As I left with my bags full of items I purchased I saw this sign on the front of a truck from Michoacan.  That is about 3 hours from here.  Thanks to God.

 Ta da - the purchases of used clothing.  All name brands.  Total cost $10US - total purchased 4 shirts, one sweater, 2 scarves and a truck for Sebastian.

The sweater for my son is an Eddie Bauer.  Beautiful feel to the fabric.  Cost- 20 pesos, about $1.60US.  I know it appears I buy a lot of black.  My son jokingly says my closet looks like someone died in there due to the amount of black.

Great day at the tianguis.
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