Chiapas - The Tzotzil Village of Chamula

 Chamula is a village about a fifteen minute ride from San Cristobal.  It is very unique in that the tribal elders control the village in a positive way.  We were told, before departing the bus, that no one was to take photos of the children, along with the fact that we were not allowed to take photos inside the church.  We all listened, except for one woman who immediately jumped off the bus and took a photo of two children!  Aaargh.  I have a photo of the woman taking the photo because I could hardly believe my eyes.

The cross is a very significant image in Chiapas.  Not a Catholic cross but a native cross to earth, wind and fire.  They are everywhere.  As you can see in the photo above, each gravesite has a wooden cross.  Always painted in a turquoise-green color. 

Walking around the village was a delightful experience.  We saw tribal elders in their black sheepskin jackets walking around.  Sheep grazing everywhere and it was market day.  Oh my, the textiles were magnificently colorful.  Of course I bought several. One graces my dining room table to this day.  The embroidery and weavings are extraordinary.

To enter the church, which is no longer a Catholic church, one had to pay a fee to a tribal elder.  Inside, it reminded me very much of the church in Chichicastenango, Guatemala which was hundreds of years old.
This church had an altar but not with adornment as we think of.  Instead, Coca cola bottles, sacrificed chickens, were sitting by the railing.  The floors were covered with pine needles and boughs so when you walked around the fragrance rose to envelope you.  Quite a magical experience.  Candles everywhere, on the floors, on the shelves along with large glass and wood boxes with statues insides sat helter skelter. Long wooden tables had many of the boxes sitting on them.  There was a sort of aisle way but not with pews as we would think.

I had seen a cleansing while I was in Chichicastenango with a chicken, candles and water, but no such luck here.  It was quite fascinating to me to see how people worship or celebrate their beliefs.  If only I had spoken Tzotzil and could have asked questions!

The sheep were so healthy and content just walking around grazing wherever they might be - up and down the streets.  Really cool.

 Tribal elders walking around - all dressed alike. They waited in the courtyard of the church while we were inside the church.  Then a few came into the church, but, never spoke to us.

It was market day, as I mentioned, when we were in Chamula.  Besides the textiles and trinkets, there was plenty of fresh produce to purchase.  This woman was the first person I saw as we entered the market.  I was thrilled when she allowed me to take her photograph, but, if you notice, no face.  They truly believe that the camera steals their spirit.

Chamula and Zincantan, the next village we visited were two of my favorite places that I visited.  However, it is kind of silly to say that because EVERYWHERE I was in Chiapas was my favorite, at the time I was there.

Tomorrow Zincantan, the village that you have to pay to enter!  And well worth it.