Friday, August 31, 2007

Some "views" from the casa

This is a strange sight to see from you windows. Well it is because it has been there for 20 years, ABANDONED! This was a project of Club Med started in the mid-80s and was going to be an archaeological resort similar to the ones Club Med is doing now in the Yucatan area. Anyway, when there was a flood and the reservoir seen below overran its walls in 1986 and the water ran through the property and buildings, the project was stopped. It has been sitting there ever since. It is so well constructed that it will never fall down...............what a folly!
I call this the "infinity pool" that I can see from my windows. In reality, it is the reservoir that holds the overflow water and allows the water to go over the sides, supposedly "slowly". But in some instances, NOT so slowly. In the dry season it is almost empty and the water birds, ibis, white pelicans and others, like to land on the tree trunks and things that are in the bottom of the reservoir. I hate to admit, but the kids swim in this in May and June when we have our warm weather-yuk!
This has been the view of the "waterfall" in the last few weeks because we have had so much rain. I don't know if you can see the little tiny building to the left of the water and the aqueduct but they were part of the structures when this was a tannery area in the 1800's. This water flows into the reservoir shown above. The sound of the water roaring down the side of the canyon is very soothing.



Thursday, August 30, 2007

September - Celebration of Independence

Mexicans are very proud of their country. They have the same intense patriotism as we do in the USA. The beginning of September the stands go up selling every conceivable thing in red, white and green in preparation for all the festivities. Construction sites, homes, cars, buses, you name it, are adorned with a flag!
The BIG event to "kick off" all of the events is on the 15th when the Governor, or some important official, stands on a balcony in the jardine and recites the Grito de Independencia. People from this area are very, very proud that the movement for independence began here and then moved to Delores Hidalgo and then on to Guanajuato.
There are lots and lots of fireworks that follow from then on til the end of the month.
At the end of the month, many indigenous Indians come into town for several parades in native costumes and headdresses that are breathtaking. I'll find those pictures in the next few days (I must have 12 rolls or more of film) and share them with you. They carry into town Xuchiles which are HUGE banners covered with flowers and cornhusks that are held on with orchid paste. They are so big it takes six to ten men to carry these banners on wood. Once they reach the jardine they are stood up along the fence of the Parroquia which is the large church in centro. Some of these Xuchiles are two stories high so you can imagine the weight of it all.
Oh, and the Indians from Papantla come to swing off a pole that is probably 6 - 8 stories high. They are called Voladores. It is a very ancient ceremony that they have with a man playing a flute standing on a platform about 8/12 x 11 " in size! The men then swing down, upside down in thirteen revolutions. All of it is very symbolic and very mystical. I have seen this ceremony held at the pyramids at El Tajin and it gave you chills it is so beautiful.
The Indian dances go on for three days. I feel privileged to observe these ceremonies.

Wednesday, August 29, 2007

Noche de Rabanos - Night of the Radishes

I have wanted to go to this celebration for at least 20 years, since I first heard about it. I was all ready to go last year with some friends from Houston and then all heck broke loose in Oaxaca city and we cancelled. So now we're making plans to go this year! The economy in that part of Mexico is totally devastated and between myself and my friends, also avid folkart collectors, I'm sure we could help their economy a wee bit.
If you would like to see this magical celebration during Christmas week click on www.flickr.com/photos/planeta/sets/1401300/show/
The radishes are grown with hormones (not edible) and these amazing carved images are seen for only two days and then it is all disposed of............a true "in the moment" event in Mexico.

Tuesday, August 28, 2007

Wildflowers

The wildflowers are becoming more and more prolific! The photographs do not do them justice. As I drive around, the vistas are just covered with the yellow sun flowers and four o'clocks etc. and I just can't seem to capture that with my camera. I think your eyes are more "wide angled"! But the purple morning glories are everywhere and even in my garden. They seem to pop up everywhere and are so sweet. I wish you culd be here to see the beauty of "Mother Nature".
I always thought (and still do) that the hills of Texas in the springtime with bluebonnets, Indian paint brush and yellow daisies are breath taking, but our fields are rivaling that right now.
Enjoy!

Earplugs in Mexico

A NECESSITY, at times! When I was going to Veracruz at Christmas last year, I was told to bring earplugs because it was so loud - it wasn't, but I now have an entire box of earplugs. I have put a few pair in my overnight kit for when I'm traveling and recently used them in Mexico City because of the traffic noise on the Reforma. I was glad I had them.
Where I live it is so quiet that I can't imagine ever needing them - except perhaps at 5AM when it is either a saint's day, a birthday, a death, a national holiday or whatever and they set off the fireworks that nearly knock you out of bed. However, I think I must be a "seasoned" San Miguel resident now because I've learned to turn over and go back to sleep..........

Sunday, August 26, 2007

Gourmet Magazine September 2007

The entire issue of Gourmet this coming month is a special issue: Latino America. There's an article by Robb Walsh who is the reviewer for the Houston Press. A good writer. His article is entitled, "As the Taco Turns" about taco trucks throughout the USA. And, there's a great article about the new Center for Foods of the America's in San Antonio. If you're the least interested in this genre, pick up this issue. Great recipes too...........I'll want to try a few!

Saturday, August 25, 2007

Bizarre Foods in Mexico

The Travel Channel had a segment on Bizarre Foods the other night. It started out in Hualtuco diving for octopus (pulpo) and cooking it a zillion ways in the ink........and then traveling to Oaxaca. Suzanna Trilling had emailed that this segment was going to be on and said that it REALLY does take a village to FIND an armadillo. That part of the story, which was quite humorous, was included in the segment.......They found it, cooked it and ate it.......along with grasshoppers, worms etc. They cooked at Suzanna's cooking school outside of Oaxaca. I hope it boosts her business!
Then the crew moved on to Mexico City and connected with Patricia Quintana, probably the "grand dame" of this generation of haute cuisine in Mexico (last generation it was Diane Kennedy) Both women have really pushed using locally grown foods and redeveloping old recipes. I've eaten at Patricia's restaurant several times, Ilote.............aaaah, it is wonderful. She cooked huitlacoche (one of my favorites, especially in crepes) among other things. Oh, they also ate mosquito larvae, I'll pass on that one.........
It was a great hour and their showing of the mercados was well done as was there filming of the various locales. If you didn't see it, I hope they repeat it!

Buenos dias, buenos dias, buenos dias

Two things I thought I would write about since I heard comments yesterday about what to do if you get stopped by the Federal police while driving in Mexico and what do you do if you get the "red" light at the 16 mile point driving into Mexico and they want to inspect your car.............
When I started coming to Mexico about 35 years ago a friend said, "Don't speak Spanish! If you start in Spanish, you have to finish in Spanish and UNDERSTAND everything the police have said" Only say" buenos dias" in answer to their question. (They ask where have you come from, where are you going and other simple things like that) So, I have always said "Buenos dias", IT WORKS! It has ALWAYS worked in the hundreds of driving trips I have made. By the third "buenos dias" they just say "Andele" and you're off............After all, they're just bored standing out on that highway in the middle of nowhere and they just want a smile and a friendly face........trust me.
And, if you're driving in and you push the button at the check point and you have a ton of stuff and you get the red light - don't panic. Usually they just want to check your tourist visa or your FM3..........IF they do want to check your car, here's what you do! You get out and you take one little thing out and walk to the table and set it down. Then you walk slowly back to the car and get a second little thing out............I did this with pinecones, one at a time once. The inspector has to stay there and they don't want to see you spend hours onloading your car. So in a few minutes they tell you ok and you're on your way..............trust me. I also did this with books once. It works!
So, those are my timely tips. Hope it helps a fellow traveler at some point!

Thursday, August 23, 2007

The Unchanging Men's Luncheon

As long as I've been in San Miguel I've been going to the "unchanging men's luncheon" on the third Thursday of the month. The "luncheon" is open to men AND women. It is a "tongue in cheek" kind of thing started by Bill as a response to the fact that the "Women In Change" group wouldn't, at the time, allow men to attend. It's a "hoot". There is NO women bashing or anything like that, just the fun of getting together...........
Here is their "platform" -
"The unchanging men's group was created to celebrate the unchanging nature of men. We as a group do NOT flower or evolve as much as women do. We tend to find things that we like and stick to them, ex-wives excluded. We like to think of this as being stable and consistent. The unchanging men's group supports the following planks in our platform. They are:
(1) The destruction of all toilet seat covers that can cause bladder distress and extreme shock to men when the seat falls down, or back problems trying to hold the toilet seat up!
(2) The encouragement of women to lift the seat when they are finished.
(3) The halting of all garage conversions unless converted into a micro brewery.
(4) The continued complete control of all remote controls by men.
(5) The right for men to scream and run out the door WITHOUT penalty when his mate asks if she looks fat or if she has gained weight.
New ideas are considered in the jardine and will be discussed and possibly added to the platform.
You can tell we try not to take many things too seriously here.........

Wednesday, August 22, 2007

One in four Americans didn't read a book in 2006!

I was astounded by this article on Yahoo yesterday. I can't imagine not reading books. My whole family, including the grandchildren, are avid readers. I probably read a book a week. Some of the favorites have been "Pillars of the Earth" by Ken Follett; "The Girl with the Pearl Earring" (can't remember author) and "Water for Elephants", (another author I can't remember) and a Spanish novel which I can't remember the title or author............. - boy I'm getting really bad, aren't I? I'm reading a funny little autobiographical novel now called "Zippy" about a woman who grew up in Indiana in the 50's and 60's..........funny. Oh and another book I read many years ago brought laughs when I talked about it at our Monday coffee klatch group, "The Girls with the Grandmother Faces". The title came about when the author said to her granddaughter that "the girls" were coming over to play bridge and the granddaughter responded, "Oh you mean the girls with the grandmother faces".
In fact, after I told how the title came about to the "girls" at the coffee klatch group, all kinds of funny, funny stories were told by each of us that our grandchildren and other children had said to us...........we were hysterical laughing! Life is good

Casa Tranquilo for rent in San Miguel de Allende

One of my friends said I should post my rental on the blog. It had never occurred to me.....It is located on the same property that I live on. If you hear of someone looking for a short-term t) or long-term rental, please have them contact me for pictures.
The house is fully furnished and someone only needs to bring their clothes. The first floor is a living/dining/kitchen combination. The sofa is a queen-size sleeper sofa. The whole front of the house is windows looking out to the beautiful courtyard filled with huge trees and masses of flowers. The second floor is a huge bedroom (16ft x 20ft) with French doors out to a balcony. It has a queen bed along with a twin made into a sitting area. The bathroom is on this level. The roof terrace has dining furniture along with chairs to sit and enjoy the exquisite views of the mountains, the canyon and the road to Delores Hidalgo. No traffic, no noise, just peace and tranquility.
The house is a ten minute walk to the jardine or a five minute walk to the mercado. It is available the first of September. The house rents long-term for $750 a month and that is inclusive of Dish Network, all utilties, telephone and maid service. It rents short-term for $560 a week.
Thanks in advance, for any help or forwarding of this message to anyone who might be interested!

Tuesday, August 21, 2007

Okra, glorious okra

Sorry I was grumpy on this morning's blog - I TRY to be patient but sometimes, I'm not - nuff said. "Think" the computer problem is fixed........we'll see.

So, I heard through the "grapevine" that there was okra at Mega. Okra is one of those things, along with sweet corn, crookneck squash and a few other veggies that I couldn't find here. Well, when I got "the word" about the okra I high-tailed it to Mega. Oh my gosh, BEAUTIFUL okra. I was scooping up a full bag when a fellow Texan came into the produce department. I told her they had okra! She came over and exclaimed and oohed and aahed as I had done...........she's from Houston also and she started telling me her routine of the places she goes to eat when she's in Houston and we stood and laughed - 59 Diner for chicken-fried steak, fried okra, sweet corn and mashed potatoes - then onto Otto's for bbq then to a great sushi place and I mentioned Kam's, a great little place that has superb Chinese food............we then went back to ooohing and aaahing about the okra. Subsequently,we burst out laughing at the fact that okra could make us so happy.
I added to my purchases, sweet corn, veggies to make homemade potato salad, and I've got cornmeal here to make homemade cornbread..........I suppose I should make some homemade banana pudding to round it all out.........a good Southern meal (notice no meat in this menu)! I'm a "happy camper" again!

Computer problems and a hurricane, oy vey!

Telmex did NOT fix the cable line..........I have access for about an hour in the morning and then nothing the rest of the day. Very frustrating..................to say the least!

Dean looks like it is going to send rain this way. If it comes in between Tampico and Veracruz that will be due East of us BUT we're 8 hours from that coast and the Sierra Madres are between the coast and us, so we'll get rain only, probably.............

That's it for today! Need to read your blogs before I'm "computer less" again.

Sunday, August 19, 2007

Hurricane - Part !!

Well for some reason, the whole blog on hurricanes didn't post - one of those mysteries of the universe that drive me crazy!
What I said was "the whole town of Baton Rouge was evacuated so they could raise the chlorine barge. It was an eery feeling to leave and not know if you would have anything left when you returned. It was my first of many evacuations over the years...........usually, with all the animals the kids had, we would look like Noah's Ark heading up the freeway to Lufkin or someplace. Of course we never told the Holiday Inn up there that we had this menagerie of animals in the room............glad those days are over!
So, if Hurricane Dean comes in due East of us, we have the Sierra Madre range between us and the coast.............I've driven over that range and it is high - 10 to 12,000 feet in some areas.......so that ought to slow it down but I would imagine we would get a little rain...........
That's it from Hurricane Central, South...............ha

Saturday, August 18, 2007

Hurricanes

For 4o years of my life (or more) I lived in the path of hurricanes! I'm sure darn happy NOT to have to think about evacuating anymore. On August 18, 1983 Hurricane Alicia was a direct hit on Houston and I and my children lived on the waters of Clear Lake which is a backwater to Galveston Bay. Three weeks without electricity in August in Texas is NOT a fun thing. We made the best of it - cooking on the grill outside, sleeping on the marble floor in the entryway because it remained cool - no matter how hot it was...........but the dumptruck loads of trees, and stuff out of the back and front yard was a mess.

When my husband and I were at LSU in 1965 a hurricane (don't remember the name) sank a chlorine barge in the Mississippi river on the other side of the levee from LSU. The whol

I think about all of the people who live even within 100 miles of the coast and what they go through this time of the year.

Friday, August 17, 2007

The Thirsty Monkey

I've just come in from dinner at the Thirsty Monkey and listening to blues singer, Billie Rose here from Vicksburg, Mississippi. Wow, what a night! How great it is when you have NO expectations and get blown away.
The owners of this restaurant have another one in South Texas and one of them is from New Orleans. I grew up in Louisiana. Give me a bowl of GOOD red beans and rice and it is manna from heaven...............this was the BEST I've had in 10 or 15 years.............whenever I was last in New Orleans..........Lord they were good!
Top that off with this off-beat woman who could sing husky jazz and then blues and then some deep south music and I was "swooning" as they say in the south.
If you're reading this in San Miguel - Billie Rose - the singer is only there on Friday and Saturday from 8-10PM (darn) but she's trying to get together another "gig" somewhere else on another night. I can't wait to go back and hear more good music.....and probably eat red beans and rice...........

Telmex to the rescue......finally!

I have been having problems with my internet service..........for a couple of weeks....... but I didn't know til Monday after my "computer guru" came by the house that it was NOT my computer but Telmex. So after several phone calls and two repairmen, IT IS FIXED, (I hope)! I could only use the computer for about 10 minutes a day.........I didn't realize how much I really use it til I couldn't - you know what I mean. How could I possibly check on all my fellow bloggers, read the daily newspapers, etc.etc.etc? Boy it was exasperating. All is well now, until the next thing happens, tee hee..........
Oh, and the other good news - I heard that you can by the New York Times here now on a daily basis. Yes, it is pricey, $3 US but, for a once in a while taste of the DAILY newspaper, I'll pay any price. It's just not the same on the internet.

McDonald's and the Golden Arches

I wrote last February 27th that McDonald's was coming to San Miguel at the new "mall". It's here! It opened a couple of weeks ago. There isn't a golden arch in sight! The design is so tastefully done that I had to stand and take it in. I know the President of the franchise is in Leon and his wife is an architect. The store is very architectural if you stop and look at the finishes. Beautiful tiles, glass block, stainless furniture.......very chic. There is a very small eating area next to the ordering area. Stairs lead up to a second floor outdoor patio, restrooms and a small children's play area. For such a small area they have executed a beautiful design.
The new "mall" is also very very beautifully designed. All stores are accessed from an outdoor promenade. Beautiful natural materials, boulders, stone waterfalls, carved cantera are just a few of the features. I have a feeling of being in Northern California as I walk through the area. Today while there having a Big Mac and shopping at the grocery store about 1PM, I was the ONLY expat I saw - the Mexicans are using this center with great regularity. YEAH.

Hopefully, the third time is the charm!

I have been having computer problems with Infinitum. I started this blog two other times and halfway through the computer would go off. Talk about aggravating.

So, this is what I said...........'CAN YOU BELIEVE THIS IS THE FERAL CAT?" I wrote about this cat having kittens in my garden on the March 18th blog. Those kittens disappeared (she must have moved them) and then she had another batch! I found homes for the four of them and said to my self, "Before I give her away I'll have her spayed" Which I did. Well, I'm here to tell you, this "feral" cat who would NOT come near me has turned into a "lap" cat in three weeks! She follows me around and sleeps right up next to me. I'm thinking of naming her "VELCRO". It's funny - I never go hunting for a pet, they seem to find me. My dog Flash, who lived with me for 16 years, was a gift from a boyfriend.............wonder how long Velcro will be around?

Monday, August 13, 2007

Chomping Cows and Gobbling Goats

So help me, this is a true story - both of them! My friends Ron and Fred moved to San Miguel from Dallas last January. To say they have had "challenges" getting their new home livable would be an understatement. I won't bore you with the gory details but suffice to say, they have REALLY had more stuff go wrong then a dozen people put together. The last straw, almost, happened a couple of weeks ago when they FINALLY were at the stage to have some landscaping on the street in front of their house. It looked really green and pretty - the ground cover and the oleanders - that is til the herd of cows came down out of the mountains and chomped the ground cover. I think they knew the oleanders were poisonous and left them alone. So, not to be outdone, Fred studied and researched and found that putting red hot chili pepper on the new ground cover would deter the cows if they or anything else wild came back. Well, they did come back, the cows............and, you guessed it, they LOVED the pepper on the green ground cover and according to Fred they pulled the plants out by their roots this time. I suggested they buy rocks as a ground cover.....
This episode reminded me of when I first moved here and there was a goat herd that grazed every day in the canyon bottom. A shepherd herded them down in the morning and back up in the evening. Except in the evening, several of the goats didn't want to follow the lead and be taken into a house near me to be milked and they would run all over on the school grounds across the street from me and then would head for the bushes that used to be in front of my house. I and the shepherd would try to shoo them off but it was totally amazing how much those darn goats could gobble so fast. I no longer have large bushes in front of my house. But I also no longer have the goat herd grazing in the canyon either. Darn.

Sunday, August 12, 2007

Hospital de La Fe

Doesn't the name of the hospital sound like a children's nursery rhyme? I DID spend part of Thurday and Friday there. It seems the "under the weather" syndrome hit again with a vengeance and the Dr. took one look at me and sent me to the emergency room and ultimately to a room for an overnight stay.
I am happy to report the nursing staff was extremely professional and the cleanliness of the emergency room and the private room were excellent.
They even have an elevator now! Now in San Miguel an elevator is a big thing. Maybe a couple of new big houses here have elevators but I know of no professional buildings with elevators. When I was in the hospital about 5 years ago, it took a "herd" of people, well maybe I exaggerate a little, but it took several people pushing the stretcher up a very steep ramp to get me to a room. I was happy not to repeat that episode.
I'm very alert about cleanliness and always look at the ceiling tiles, among other things, and they were spotless (it comes from having built many commercial buildings in my previous life).
The nursing staff were prompt and the emergency room nurse found my vein on the first try - something that NEVER happens in the USA - NEVER! I was amazed.....
So, if I had to rate the hospital I would say it is equivalent to a small regional facility in a suburban area in the USA. We are very lucky to have this private hospital here!
The cost for the emergency room, all the meds (lots), two doctors and a private room $600 US. I have no idea what that would be in the USA but I KNOW it would be much more..........

Wednesday, August 08, 2007

The generosity of Friends and Strangers

The saga of Ruth Blanchette continues.............(see the post of July 12th and the one entitled "How can it be?".
A Memorial Fund has been set up to help cover the costs incurred in the few weeks that Ruth was sick since she did not have insurance. The checks are rolling in to cover those expenses. A beautiful tribute is in the Houston Chronicle today by Dai Huynh, www.chron.com/disp/story.mpl/headline/features/5034588.html All of this would absolutely astound Ruth! She was such a private person.
It reminds me of all of the kindnesses that my family received in the 5 1/2 years that my daughter was ill. There were fund raisers, blood drives, food prepared and delivered, people sitting for eight hours to donate platelets, and so much more. Friends and Strangers. The kindness was overwhelming and redeeming for us as a family.
Houston is a big city with a "small town" attitude. It reaches out..........and helps. It doesn't turn its back, ever. Remember Katrina? And, the foodservice industry is the MOST generous group of people I have ever been privileged to have been involved with in my life.
So, there are so many lessons from tragedy.............and often they are uplifting.

Tuesday, August 07, 2007

Chiapas

Chiapas is a place I have not gotten to .......YET! It, along with Oaxaca and Cuba are high on my list of the next places.
There is a man in Oaxaca, Eric Mindling, who conducts amazing tours in Mexico with very knowledgeable guides. Today he sent an email with a slideshow of a tour they do to Chiapas for Day of the Dead among other things. The photos are magnificent and I thought you might enjoy them also. The website is www.traditionsmexico.com/wr2_dod_fibers_hi_chiapas.html Oops, I realize that you can't tell that between each series of words there is an underscore, ie. wr2_dod_fibers_hi_ Hope this works!

Sunday, August 05, 2007

Timothy Fain

Remember that name! He is an incredible violinist that I was privileged to hear last evening at the Chamber Music Festival here in San Miguel. He just popped out on the stage at the end of the scheduled performance and played two pieces that stunned the audience. I had heard he MIGHT be there last night and was thrilled when he walked out. I heard this young man two years ago and was "blown away" as the kids say. For information about him and all of his accomplishments go to www.yca.org/fain.html He uses no music and transports himself and everyone within hearing range with his incredible talent.

I don't know if he has any cds but I intend to find out. I'm trying to get a ticket for Tuesday night when he is scheduled to perform. If he EVER comes to wherever you are, go hear him, you too will be enchanted!

Saturday, August 04, 2007

How can it be?

How can it be that the friend I wrote about on July 12th without health insurance could have died today? How could it be that I was at the ballet with her six weeks ago and she is gone?
Ruth was an entrepreneur that I met through the Houston Culinary Guild. Quite a woman who was totally focused on her specialty sauce business to the exclusion of almost everything else. It was her passion. She schlepped sauces to chefs and restauranteurs and shipped to whoever needed it, wherever. Of course she was a "sole proprietor" so when she couldn't do it........it died with her. So sad, so quick. LIVE EVERY MOMENT...............I guess Ruth had a special delivery of sauces to make.............to heaven.

Thursday, August 02, 2007

San Miguel Reverie

I wrote this several years ago, and it indeed still applies:

THE MAGIC OF SAN MIGUEL IS
BEAUTY
FRIENDLINESS
BLUE SKIES
BOURGANVILLA
THE STORIES OF HOW PEOPLE CAME HERE..........
AND WHY THEY STAY
THE GENTLENESS OF THE PEOPLE AND THE INNOCENCE
OF THEIR CHILDREN
THE IMPERFECT COBBLESTONES
AND SMOOTH PLASTERED WALLS
THE ROOSTERS, ROOF DOGS AND GOATS
THE SOUND OF BROOMS SWEEPING, THUNDER CLAPPING
AND MARIACHIS PLAYING.

FOR ALL OF THIS I AM GRATEFUL TO WITNESS